|
Wrap tin foil around the end of the voltmeter
test lead to prevent damaging the heater line. Apply finger pressure
on the tin foil, moving the tin foil along the grid line to check
for open circuits. |
| 1. |
Turn on the defogger switch and use a
voltmeter to measure the voltage of each heater line at the glass
center point. If a voltage of approximately 6V is indicated by the
voltmeter, the heater line of the rear window is considered
satisfactory.
|
| 2. |
If a heater line is burned out between the
center point and (+) terminal, the voltmeter will indicate
12V.
|
| 3. |
If a heater line is burned out between the
center point and (-) terminal, the voltmeter will indicate
0V.
|
| 4. |
To check for open circuits, slowly move the
test lead in the direction that the open circuit seems to exist. Try
to find a point where a voltage is generated or changes to 0V. The
point where the voltage has changed is the open-circuit
point.
|
| 5. |
Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance of
each heater line between a terminal and the center of a grid line,
and between the same terminal and the center of one adjacent heater
line. The section with a broken heater line will have a resistance
twice as that in other sections. In the affected section, move the
test lead to a position where the resistance sharply
changes.
|
| 6. |
If the heat line fails, replace the rear
glass.
(Refer to the BD group - "Interior - Tailgate
glass") | |
